Umani Ronchi, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) 2015

 This is the wine to change the minds of those who underestimate Montepulciano d’Abruzzo as a simple, grapey wine to drink absent-mindedly with pizza.  Bulk renditions made in the southernmost section of Abruzzo do fit that description (and are responsible for underestimations of that sort), but quality-conscious producers in the north who control yields and vinify and age carefully can make something distinctive, delicious and downright delightful from the Montepulciano variety.  This wine shows its seriousness as soon as it becomes visible in a glass, with a very dark, deeply pigmented appearance.  The aromas and flavors are fruit-driven but neither simple nor grapey, with blackberry and black raspberry notes showing wonderfully bright, fresh tones, with very attractive spice accents.  The bright acidity (surprising and impressive in light of the quite warm 2015 vintage) provides lift to what is actually a formidably rich body, and what is most uncanny about the wine is that it is so big but yet so fresh.  This combination lends real versatility for food-pairing purposes and also makes it a year-round winner.  Made with organic grapes, this 2015 is the debut release of this wine, which will change a lot of minds regarding just how fine Montepulciano d’Abruzzo can be.