Delicious and reasonably priced, this is a great introduction to the wonders that can be worked by blending in a little Nerello Cappuccio (10%) along with the lion’s share of Nerello Mascalese, and then not over-working the wine in the cellar. It is light in pigment concentration, but appearances are deceiving in this case, as the textural softness of the wine permits all of its fruit show on the palate. Yet, what shows on the palate is hardly all fruit, as there’s a lot of salty minerality that rides atop the juicy red cherry flavors like a rodeo monkey on a trick pony. Very broadly appealing, this is sweet and soft enough to seduce Sicily novices, but complex enough to captivate the geekiest sommelier. This producer also makes a very good “Contrada Blandano” that’s more expensive and released notably later, up to 3 years. But don’t torment yourself searching for that, as the DeAetna is much more abundant and every bit as good in its way.
Terra Costantino, Etna Rosso DOC (Sicily, Italy) 2017
By Michael Franz