Mettler Family Vineyards, Lodi (California) Albarino 2019

  American consumers have embraced Albariño, the most important white grape in Spain’s Galicia region, because of the energetic and spicy wines made from it.  And now, with roughly 450 acres of it, almost a one-third of which was planted in the last three years, the grape — and wine — is making inroads into California vineyards.  Mettler’s is a lovely example of what California can do with Albariño.  Though a softer and riper style that the ones coming from Rias Baixas, its traditional home in Galicia, Mettler’s delivers subtle spice atop floral elements and a welcome slight bitterness in the finish. It’s a good choice for full-flavored seafood.