Dr. Konstantin Frank, Finger Lakes (New York) Grüner Veltliner 2023

 I have long felt that the Finger Lakes of northern New York makes this country’s best dry Riesling.  What I didn’t realize is how well they do with Grüner Veltliner, Austria’s signature grape.  It should come as no surprise since Grüner, as it’s known, requires similar growing conditions to Riesling.  And it should come as no surprise that Dr. Konstantin Frank, one of the region’s finest and most talented producers, makes a stunning one.  Although a light-weight white, weighing in at only 12 percent stated alcohol, it makes a bigger impression than you would expect.  A cutting and laser-like edginess magnifies its subtle green apple profile.  Those looking for a voluptuous white need to look elsewhere.  Those embracing a racy and mineral-infused white, crisp enough to cut even through the fat of a grilled steak, will make a bee line to this Grüner.