Biondi-Santi, Rosso di Montalcino (Rosso di Montalcino) Sangiovese 2020

 Much is made about the evolution of the taste of a great wine year after year in the bottle, any rightfully so, as we decipher how it tastes now versus how it tasted then.  That’s why some people who make a living out of rating wines give a range of two or three points at barrel tasting – fine wine fudging.  But the same is true from a different perspective of wines such as this one – should our tasting notes reflect how it appears ex-uncorking, decanted hours later or even the next day?  Or all of the above.  Even though this is the undercard red in Biondi-Santi’s stable, it is in itself an excellent, even great wine that reflects the character of its Brunello older brother.  Out of the bottle, it is smooth and lean, almost delicate in its savory cherry flavors until you hit the lean, delightfully rusty (not rustic) tannic finish.  Step back and give this wine some air!  Later, it still has those ethereal flavors that Sangiovese is capable of, not too distant from Pinot’s delicacy, but instead bristling with lovely tannins – a Burgundy with muscle!