Oceano’s 2019 Spanish Springs Chardonnay starts off with a bang, as electric acidity washes over the palate, a product of winemaker Rachel Martin’s decision to prevent malolactic fermentation, and it keeps this wine alive and refreshing throughout. Nonetheless, the wine seamlessly transitions from its sharp, angular attack to an elegant, ever so slightly rounded finish, with lees stirring and a delicate touch of new French oak giving the wine body and depth. All of this is accompanied by a chorus of lemon curd, lemon grass, sea spray, yellow apple, and green pear. A dream pairing for scallops and risotto.
Oceano, San Luis Obispo (California) Chardonnay 2019
By John McDermott