Adegas Gran Vinum, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2022

 It takes something like real…um, self-confidence to name your winery “Gran Vinum” and then release — as your 2nd tier wine — a bottling called “Esencia Divina.”  This is not a criticism, nor is it an accusation of arrogance, for the simple reason that these wines deliver on their names, which is no small feat (and they do it in less-than-stellar vintages, too).  This is not quite up to the “Grand Vin” of Grand Vinum’s “Selección Especial” in terms of physical weight, nor is it quite as classy, as it shows more tropical notes and overall flamboyance, whereas the Selección Especial” shows the weight and restraint of, well, a great Sumo champion.  Still, this is more in line with regular consumer expectations even though the wine is way, way better than the norm, and at a price lower by $10, it will be the better choice for many buyers, if not the better wine by overall critical standards.  Still conspicuously rich, with lightly floral aromas followed by impactful flavors of ripe peaches, mangoes and baked apples, this is very substantial and satisfying, but still pure in flavor and finish, with enough acidity to invite sip after sip.  Excellent, period.