Domaine Delaporte, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2017

 I tasted this terrific wine side-by-side with the 2017 “Les Monts Damnés” from J. de Villebois, or perhaps I should say that I tasted them neck-and-neck, as this horseracing term for a close finish is how things worked out.  This is initially the more restrained an reticent of the two, but it blossoms quite dramatically after an un-refrigerated hour, retaining the lemon-lime citrus notes that were first displayed, but layering in suggestions of apricot that seem much more rich and ripe than anything that was revealed up front.  It also evolves to show some seeming wood influence in the form of some spiciness and (positive) oxidative notes that were also concealed in how the wine initially presents itself.  As a last word, I can easily understand how buying Sancerre for $52 might seem like madness, as many people think of the breed as tart little wines for oysters and nothing more.  But experience has taught me that the best renditions can be fantastic if permitted time to develop their full potential, and let me tell you…this wine packs massive potential.