Bodegas Luna Beberide, Bierzo (León, Spain) Mencia 2017

 This excellent producer has turned in a wonderful performance with this wine in 2017, making a rich and generous rendition that displays the warmth of the growing season while still retaining the freshness that makes old vine, high-elevation Mencía so exciting.  Deeply pigmented and medium-plus in body, this has already soaked up almost all the overtly oaky notes from its upbringing, with only some lovely spice notes showing at this point, accenting the black cherry and red berry fruit (plus the lightest touch of wood tannin providing just a bit of extra grip in the finish).  Sip after sip, it shows virtually perfect balance between ripe fruit and bright acidity, and also between textural softness and structural spine for future development.  My guess is that both 2016 and 2018 will ultimately be regarded as great vintages in Bierzo that will somewhat surpass 2017, but both will take longer to reveal all their charms, whereas this wine is already fantastic, and will surely get even better for another five years.