The Grosses Gewächs designation is reserved for the greatest vineyard sites in Germany, and the 2017 von Winning bottling from the Ungeheuer vineyard in Forst shows the depth and power one hopes for. This is a sensational dry Riesling! It is bold, racy, complex, layered and absolutely delicious. The bouquet reveals ripe apple, peach, apricot, papaya and pineapple fruit tones enhanced by floral elements and allspice hints. Although still youthful, the flavors are rich and concentrated with the luscious basket of tree and tropical fruits interwoven with the spice and floral nuances. The purity, intensity and rich texture of the von Winning style is clearly evident here. This layered, complex and dry Riesling will develop and improve for another decade and beyond.
von Winning, Pfalz (Germany) Riesling 2017
By Wayne Belding