Frog’s Leap Winery, Rutherford, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

 John Williams, owner and winemaker at Frog’s Leap, has a knack for whimsy.  It’s apparent from his website, from his tagline, “time’s fun when you’re having flies,” to the fine print at the very end of the back label —"open other end.”  But there’s no whimsy in this bottle.  It’s serious.  And gorgeous.  Beautifully proportioned, it combines savory, olive-like nuances with lush dark fruit.  It’s a wonderfully deep, yet restrained Cabernet, the kind that gave Napa Valley its well-deserved reputation.  Its structure is suave, showing no astringency or harshness.  I just wish he’d ditch the oversized bottle — it detracts from the restraint and elegance of the wine.