Tenuta Garetto, Nizza DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2016

 Nizza is a Barbera-only appellation that was established as a free-standing DOCG in 2014, when it was granted its own identity after being subsumed formerly within Barbera d’Asti.  This wine makes a remarkably convincing case for the granting of DOCG status, which frankly is a process in Italy that sometimes seems driven more by politics than sheer vinous merit.  This release is impressively dark and concentrated, with full ripeness and prodigious palate impact, yet also the refreshing tang of energetic acidity that can make Barbera uniquely fun to drink—and exceptionally versatile with food.  It is worth emphasizing that a worldwide trend toward fuller ripeness and bigger wines began afflicting Barbera in Piedmont during the 1990s, resulting in far too many renditions were made by wrestling against the variety’s high-acid nature, “domesticating” it into something conforming more closely to international fashion.  Recently and thankfully, here’s been some backlash against that trend, and today you can find fresh, zesty Barberas or big, ripe ones.  However, finding big, powerful renditions that are also tangy and exciting is still a challenge, but here’s a wine from a great vintage in Piedmont that hits the bulls eye.  If my score is off, it is definitely off on the low side.