Bruno Giacosa, Roero DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Arneis 2018

 Arneis is a grape variety that almost disappeared.  It is grown in the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy, home of the Nebbiolo grape that blesses us with Barolo and Barbaresco.  How fitting that two Barolo producers, Bruno Giacosa and Vietti’s Alfredo Curado saw the grape’s virtues.  Ian d’Agata notes in his Native Wine Grapes of Italy that Arneis and Nebbiolo have historical ties.  In the past it was called Nebbiolo Bianco.  It was sometimes added to Barolo to soften the wine’s acidity.  It was also interplanted with to lure birds away from the later ripening and more valuable Nebbiolo.  Because Arneis is not a high acid grape, and it can lose the acidity it has without warning overnight, it requires dedication and vigilance to harvest at exactly the right time, and for many vintners may not be worth the effort.  Fortunately, Bruno’s daughter, Bruna shares her late father’s dedication to this grape.  It is fermented in stainless steel tanks, sees no oak or malolactic fermentation, to focus on the fruit flavors, freshness and balance.  Floral, ripe peach aromas introduce round ripe flavors of peach, citrus and tropical fruits balanced with citrusy acidity.  It is quite enjoyable as an aperitif or with a pasta with lemon butter sauce.