Cap Maritime, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (Walker Bay, South Africa) Pinot Noir 2018

 This is wonderfully delicate, nuanced Pinot Noir that shows exceptional winemaking skill as well as this cool climate region’s ability to conjure real magic from the world’s most famously finicky grape variety.  The project stems from Boekenhoutskloof, my Wine Producer of the Year for 2019, and at this early juncture, the fruit is being purchased while the young estate vines are gaining maturity.  One can only imagine how good the Pinot and Chardonnay bottled under the Cap Maritime brand may become once this is an entirely “in-house” operation, but it would be a big mistake to wait in the interim, as the current releases of both varieties are marvelous.  This Pinot shows expressive aromas and generous flavors but only modest weight, which is the most fundamental – if elusive – characteristic of outstanding renditions of the variety.  Notes that are both fruity (red and black cherry) and savory (wild mushroom) are among those expressive aromas and generous flavors, along with a subtle spiciness and other nuances that reveal themselves with airing.  Although well worth a search, the wine won’t be easy to find, as only small quantities are being sold by importer Vineyard Brands in Pennsylvania, Texas and California.  So, contact your friends in those states.  This will definitely become even more complex if you can keep your hands off of it for another 4 to 5 years, but the only way you’ll muster that patience is if you don’t taste how good the wine is now.