Fratelli Povero, Roero DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Arneis 2020

 This very young release from the 2020 vintage is already showing beautifully, and though it may get a bit better in the months ahead (maybe longer), you’ll have a hard time keeping your mitts off it if you are lucky enough to taste it now.  The aromas are a bit less expressive than the flavors, but they still show nicely restrained floral hints as well as note of fresh nectarines.  The wine really comes into its own on the palate, with fully medium body or even a bit more weight than that, with excellent purity of fruit and integration of acidity.  Juicy flavors of ripe peaches are completely winning, and they prove very persistent, with the acidity hanging in with the primary fruit sweetness in basically perfect balance all along the way.  The roundness and juiciness of the fruit is a bit reminiscent of fine Condrieu, with the key difference being that this is less overtly floral, though that would be an advantage for this with many experienced tasters, who can’t cozy up to a 2nd or 3rd glass of a wine that’s overtly perfumed.  This is not yet all that complex, but it damned sure is delicious.