This is a rich, flavorful rendition of Roero Arneis that could serve very well as an introduction to the breed or a new option for those who already love it. The wine shows good density that even seems just a bit oily in texture, but there’s still plenty of acidity running through the mid-palate and finish to keep this from seeming heavy. The aromas show scents of green melon and stone fruits as well as a pleasant aroma reminiscent of straw, and the same fruit notes echo on the palate, but joined by a suggestion of ripe fig and a slightly bitter citrus pith undertone in the finish. This is quite enjoyable as a sipping wine, but its heft and authoritative flavors make it a great choice for the dinner table — hopefully one graced by something along the lines of scallops or swordfish.
Carlo Chiesa, Roero DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Arneis 2018
By Michael Franz