The folks at Balletto Vineyards recognize and honor Pinot Gris’s relationship with Pinot Noir by planting their Pinot Gris grapes in a prime Pinot Noir site in the hills southwest of Sebastopol. I was not aware of this when I first tasted this wine, but I knew it was a very special wine. It wasn’t the lovely pale-yellow color or the intense pear, citrus aromas with mineral notes. My interest grew with the freshness of the pear fruit flavors and how the wine felt on my tongue. Yes, there was crisp, citrusy acidity balancing that pristine, juicy fruit. But when I swallowed, the sensations left on my tongue got my full attention. My mouth was reverberating with flavors on the tongue, something reminiscent of a pleasantly mild anise. Turns out, that is what they are after. In addition to the vineyard site, they aim for texture and length with their minimal intervention winemaking that includes whole cluster press and fermentation in neutral oak. To my palate, they are remarkedly successful.
Balletto Vineyards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Gris 2019
By Rebecca Murphy