Gallina de Piel, Empordà (Catalonia, Spain) 2018

 Roca del Crit (screaming rock) was a place behind El Bulli where, the story goes, David Seijas, the sommelier at that famed restaurant, could escape and scream to relieve tension from work.  Roca del Crit is more robust than its stable mate, Mimetic, with a focus more on minerals and earth.  There is still plenty of dark fruit, but that component is no longer front and center.  The wine has great refinement, especially considering its power.  Great acidity imbues it with energy.  Wonderful texture — those suave tannins — adds to its appeal.  A hint of bitterness in the finish reminds you it is serious stuff.  Perfect now for wintery fare, it’s also a bargain for what it delivers.  You’ll scream with joy when you taste it.  I just wish they would ditch the heavy bottle.  The wine speaks for itself.