This is gorgeous young Arneis that shows subtle but still notable aromatics recalling fresh stone fruits like nectarines. It really comes into its own on the palate, displaying excellent richness and textural breadth, with deep flavors recalling white peaches and baked apples. The fruit was ripened beautifully, leaving an impression of sweetness but not one of residual sugar, as the sweetness seems directly tied to the fruit flavors. Also indicative of judicious harvesting is the acidity, which really freshens and lengthens this borderline opulent wine, preventing it from seeming too thick or ponderous. Generous and stylish at once, this is a textbook rendition of a wine category that is definitely on the rise.
Nino Costa, Roero Arneis DOCG (Langhe, Piedmont, Italy) 2019
By Michael Franz