J. de Villebois, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2019

 During a span of only about 18 months, this company has flown under the radar — or at least my radar — into the USA and gone from an utter unknown to one of the most impressive producers in France’s entire Loire Valley.  I like surprises as much as the next guy, but as regards expertise in my field, I’m a bit embarrassed about being snuck up on so cleverly.  A bit of digging on the importer’s website provides an introduction stating that, “J. de Villebois is a family winery owned by Joost and Miguela de Willebois.  Over the last 15 years, Villebois has become one of the leading Sauvignon Blanc producers in the Loire Valley with a unique range of Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir wines cultivated in its own vineyards.”  Okay, that makes me feel a bit better, as 15 years is only a nanosecond across the span of wine time in France, so let’s get  to this wine.  It seems to have arrived about 6 months later than the J. de Villebois 2019 Sancerre, which won a placement in all 12 of the restaurants for which I consult after a taste-off against 18 other Sancerre wines available at the wholesale level in DC, and this Pouilly-Fumé is even better, if notably different in style.  Quite rich and rounded, rather than taut and mineral, it is a very generous rendition of Sauvignon Blanc, with remarkable depth of flavor and full ripeness that brings out Sauvignon’s melon-y side, as opposed to its citrus-y side, and indeed there’s even a suggestion of tropical fruits that seem even riper than the melon notes.  Yet there’s good varietal character thanks to subtle herbal scents and a streak of lemony acidity, and the wine has good freshness and length.  Still, for a Sauvignon-based wine from the Loire, this is remarkable for how much “bass” as opposed to “treble” you sense in the mix.  This is a deal at the $31 price suggested by the importer, so don’t be hesitant about paying that if the full price is asked.  This actually shows the palate weight of Grand Cru Chablis, to offer some context, and though you could certainly enjoy it with oysters on the half shell, it has sufficient substance to make me hanker for langoustines sautéed in white wine and butter.  Damned impressive wine.