Desparada began in 2010, is based in Paso Robles, and makes wines from vineyards in the Central Coast. Beyond that, everything else about Desparada is unusual, unconventional, and fascinating. “Soothsayer” for example is 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Barbera, and the grapes are sourced from three vineyards. The end result is an unusual wine that looks and smells like Cabernet but has the solid framework, balance, and bright acidity associated with Barbera. This atypical combination works extremely well. It throws a deposit and should also age well. I like this wine not just because it is different but mainly because it is so enjoyable. Desparada is the creation of Vailia From who is the owner and winemaker. Described by some as a “rebel winemaker” and “free spirit,” she is definitely unconventional, but also wonderfully creative. She likely designed the label artwork and prefers giving her wines proprietary names like Soothsayer and “Sackcloth & Ashes,” for a Bordeaux blend. Three separate Sauvingnon Blancs are made, again bearing special names. My first encounter with Desparada was the 2018 “Fragment” Sauvignon Blanc which won me over with its ripe, expansive aroma, and leesy, slightly oaked and herbal personality. The name Desparada is a play on a female outlaw type. Yes, she is unusual. Here are her tasting notes for Soothsayer: “Calcareous acid trip, mezcal spanked blueberries, fire-roasted poblanos with creme fresh, country club ashtray, three legged cat, first date jitters.” That says it all. For more amusing descriptions and wine offers, see Desperada.com. 318 cases made.
Desparada, Central Coast (California) 2018
By Norm Roby