Paso Robles has deservedly become the go-to place for good deals in Cabernet Sauvignon among top California appellations, particularly for Cabernets that can be enjoyed when young. Some, however, tend to be very ripe and high in alcohol, the epitome of a fruit bomb. Ancient Peaks relies on Cabernet from the southernmost vineyards in Paso which may explain why, over recent vintages, it has avoided such excesses. This 2018, for example, offers up plenty of blackberry fruit joined by a hint of black olive in a medium-bodied package with good length and light tannins in the aftertaste. A bit of oak adds a subtle layer. Not a lightweight, wimpy wine. It has some power but is nicely proportioned overall and can be enjoyed over the next 2 to 3 years.
Ancient Peaks Vineyard, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
By Norm Roby