Patient Cottat, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2019

 This terrific wine won’t be everybody’s idea of classic Sancerre, but that doesn’t make it any less terrific, and it might be an example of a new paradigm for high-end wines from this famous appellation.  It differs from the traditional norm in being less “grassy” on the nose, weightier and broader on the palate, and less sharply tart in the finish.  With that said, it still shows some light herbal aromas, is still only medium-bodied on the light side of that category, and has plenty of acidity to be quite refreshing and bright as it finishes.  So, we’re talking here about a difference “in degree” rather than “in kind” by comparison to the best Sancerre wines of years past.  Still, climate change is showing in this wine, as it is in many whites that have passed across my tasting bench in recent years.  It may interest you to know that this is at least as true for wines made from prime sites as for those from lesser ones, and for good reason: historically, the best vineyard sites were best because they maximized sun exposure, which was needed for full ripening.  These sites are now often more challenging than ones that were less desirable not long ago.  However, top sites tend to be owned by top producers who are generally above average in the talent and capital they can bring to the task of adapting to climate change, and this factor mutes the impact of the phenomenon.  I’ve loved the Sancerre releases from Patient Cottat for years, and love this one too, regardless of its marginally different character.  I’d bet you’ll love it too.