Txakoli Malda, Getariako Txakolina DO (Pays Basque, Spain) 2020

 Wines in this style from Spain’s beautiful, highly distinctive, food-rich Basque Country have never quite gotten traction commercially in the USA (which is also true of the best examples somewhat similarly styled Vinho Verde wines of Portugal).  To consumers in a nation that introduces wine mostly by way of California, these can seem weirdly thin, tart, under-ripe, and fizzy, and most novices don’t need four different reasons to say “no, thank you, I’d prefer something else.”  However, as taste preferences are by nature subjective, it is every bit as valid to characterize a wine like this as light, zesty, fresh, and playfully effervescent, which is a much different spin, and one that will sound quite appealing to young wine consumers.  So, don’t count out a wine like this, as you could be just as wrong as those who argued that rosé wines could never overcome the horror of white Zinfandel and achieve popularity in the USA.  This bottling hits just the right balance point on multiple dimensions, being light but not insubstantial, tart but not sour, zesty and fresh but not raw, and bubbly enough to make it clear that the bubbles are intentional but not so fizzy that a table wine glass seems inappropriate for relaxed enjoyment.  The palate impressions recall Granny Smith apples and lime zest, along with undertones of sea spray and dried herbs.  You’ll find descriptors akin to these on the back label, but that doesn’t mean I plagiarized anything — just that whoever wrote the copy for the back label did a good job.  One last thing:  This is not quite the fluffy, forgettable wine it might seem to some at first blush; it held up beautifully under a cork in my refrigerator for 48 hours, and when re-opened, it was almost exactly as fizzy as when first opened, despite the fact that only 1/3 of the wine remained in the bottle, due to how good it tasted on the first night.  At 11% stated alcohol, this offers a not-so-guilty pleasure, so sharpen your oyster knife and buy a bushel of fresh oysters to keep your guilt quota running even.