Kurtatsch, Alto Adige DOC (Italy) Schiava 2019

 Although the variety is almost unknown in the USA, many residents and wine trade members in the gorgeous region of Alto Adige in the far north of Italy love Schiava for its delicacy and excellence as a partner for many foods.  This is the perfect wine to offer a case in point.  (The region is stubbornly bilingual, having been ceded to Italy after it helped defeat the Austro-Hungarian Empire in World War I, so it is worth pointing out that the region is called Südtirol in German and the grape variety also called Vernatsch — as on this bottle — and Trollinger more commonly in Germany; “Alte Reben” is German for “old vines.”)  But enough already with the preliminaries!  This is light in color as well as palate weight, but offers lovely aromas and flavors centered on fruit notes recalling red cherries but accented with subtle savory undertones.  These notes combine to produce a wine that is fruity but far from obvious in its fruitiness, with lots of understated details that can express themselves precisely because nothing about the wine overwhelms its other sensory signals.  For example, any wood that might have been involved in the wine’s upbringing shows only indirectly, perhaps by offering some oxidative maturity; there is nothing overtly spicy or toasty or “woody” about the wine.  What is most impressive is the wine’s essentially perfect tannin balance, with just enough tannic grip to provide structure and a sensory contrast to the tenderness of the fruit.  At $30, this is a steal, and a wine that offers such delicacy that it can “out-Pinot” most renditions of Pinot Noir in this respect.