Gradis’ciutta, Collio (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2020

 It won’t be easy to get consumers in the USA to pony up $22 for Pinot Grigio, for the simple reason that expectations have been pounded down by years of thin, flavorless renditions that have achieved commercial success for no discernable reason other than difference from over-oaked Chardonnay.  That’s the bad news.  The good news is that this is a mind-changer of a Pinot Grigio, thanks to the skill of Robert Princic and the growing conditions in Collio, which runs neck-and-neck with Alto Adige for the title of Italy’s finest source for white wines.  This is truly medium-bodied, but thanks to concentration rather than excessive ripeness or residual sugar — two attributes that make this variety (under the name of Pinot Gris) dramatic in Alsace but also tiring to drink.  Subtle stone fruit aromas and flavors are accented with a wisp of the musky undertone characteristic of fine renditions of this variety, and the wine’s weight is very effectively lifted by acidity that is zesty but never sour.  Very well done, and if my score is off at all, I missed on the low side.