Ca’ Del Sarto, Friuli (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2021

 This is notably above the average for this wine type and price category, which I confess looks like “damning with faint praise,” but unless served ice cold (which is lamentably common with moderately priced Pinot Grigio), this shows real substance and flavor.  Closer to medium-bodied than light (which is a surprise in itself), with fruit flavor recalling white melon and golden apples, this is an over-achiever.  Often the choice in this category is refreshment value without flavor, or flavor without cut and acidity, but this gets the balance right.