Adegas Gran Vinum, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2021

 The 2021 vintage was a tough one in Rías Baixas according to several sources, and I tasted more than a few washed out examples earlier this year that seem to confirm these reports.  To date, this is the best 2021 example I’ve tasted, and though it is a click or two below the quality level at which this wine usually shows, it is quite a success when considered in context.  The bouquet shows light, pleasant floral notes and primary fruit aromas recalling stone fruits — especially fresh, ripe apricots and nectarines.  The balancing acidity is perfectly adequate, and the freshness factor is aided by a higher degree of unresolved carbon dioxide than I’m accustomed to in this wine, actually seeming a bit pétillant or frizzante when first opened — though the wine settles down in short order.  Beyond being a very good showing for the vintage, this is a very good wine, full stop.