Monte Rio Cellars, Lodi (California) Zinfandel 2020

 This is an impressive Zinfandel from 90-year-old vines planted in the heart of Lodi.  It is harvested early, keeping alcohol down to 13 percent, and whole-cluster fermented (entire bunches of grapes — stems and all  — instead of de-stemming them first), which adds structure and concentration.  It is bursting with flavors of red plum, cranberry, pomegranate, strawberry compote, pepper, and sweet spices.  Bright acidity provides lasting freshness, and pillowy tannins allow easy drinkability.