Gillmore, Maule Valley (Chile) Carignan 2015

 So much is happening in the wine realm in Chile these days that it is a real challenge to keep up, but you should nevertheless resolve to memorize the word, “Vigno.”  The word will only be seen on a very limited set of wines, and most of them are memorable like this one, which is downright fantastic.  Vigno is the name of an organization of high-end producers in the Maule Valley intent upon showcasing what can be made from their dry-farmed, old vines Carignan.  This vine variety – Carignan in French, Carignano in Italian, and Cariñena in Spanish – is often overlooked because it is lost in blends or overshadowed by other varieties in the Mediterranean regions in which it is planted (and, by extension, everywhere else in the New World where it was transplanted).  That’s enough background, so let’s get to it:  This is a current release from 2015 that’s perfectly mature with headroom for further improvement, and the fact that my press sample just showed up demonstrates a commitment to showcasing what wonders can be wrought from this fruit when vinified and aged respectfully.  I’d guess that this commitment reflects well on both the producer and Gillmore’s exemplary importer, but what is most important is the wine’s thrilling combination of fruity, meaty, and savory characters — all of which are so harmonious and integrated that tasting this is like twirling a gem to see differing facets of a single object.  Moreover, the oak, fruit, acidity and tannin are all singing in unison right now, so this is ready to rip if you can find it, though there’s no rush.  For those of us with wine loving friends who are either talented or experienced (or just pretentious), this is a great choice to present “blind,” as neither the grape nor the country of origin nor even the hemisphere will prove easy to guess.  By contrast, the wine itself is impossible not to admire, and to relish.