Massimo Lentsch, Etna Rosso (Sicily, Italy) 2019

 This is manifestly the big brother of the two sibling releases from this producer in 2019, with significantly deeper color, more palate weight, a notably higher oak load, and more tannic feel in the finish than the “San Teodoro” release from this vintage.  It is the more “impressive” of the two, but not the “prettier” of the pair, so if you are lucky enough to have a shot at buying either of the two, choose accordingly (or buy a bottle of both and go back for more of the one you prefer).  This probably started with more color and body, but newer oak cooperage can have the effect of “fixing” or “retaining” the pigment compounds in wines from varieties like Pinot Noir or (as in this case) Nerello Mascalese, and that has probably accentuated the apparent differences between the two wines.  This is certainly not over-oaked in the sense that the material can’t handle the wood, but there is more wood influence here than I prefer in Etna Rosso, so for now, I am more impressed than enthralled.  Because the proportions are right and the fruit material is perfectly ripened and macerated, there’s every reason to believe this will settle into something really special for those who have patience and a good cellar (neither of which is really needed, as this is not all that oaky by general global standards — just oaky for Etna).  I’m a bit worried about being a point low on this wine, but among the good things about point scoring is that it demands decisiveness.  So, 92 it is — which is an excellent score for an excellent wine.