Malvirà, Roero Riserva (Piedmont, Italy) 2017

 This is one of three extremely impressive Riservas from a large-ish and very impressive producer, with the “impressive” part more about quality than quantity.  (Though it is worth noting that this winery would be suitable for group visits, and we need to get more people visiting Roero.)  The other two Riservas are “Renesio” and “S.S. Trinità” and all three were terrific in both 2017 and 2009 — I was fortunate to taste all 6 in total at the winery.  Choosing this “Mombeltramo” 2017 was not so easy even though this was my preferred release in both 2017 and 2009, the reason being that Arneis “Renesio” 2013 was sensational (and “2013” is not a misprint).  Returning yet again to the “Mombeltramo” 2017, it is very appealingly soft in texture and open in flavor for a wine of its age and particular vintage, with truly wonderful balance between primary fruit notes and emerging savory accents.  A complete wine of exceptional quality.