Domaine Sigalas, Santorini (Cyclades, Greece) Assyrtiko 2020

 Domaine Sigalas’ Santorini Assyrtiko is a legend among Greek wines – resetting one’s expectation of what Greek wines and native grape varieties could be.  It is a consistently superb white that ages beautifully but provides a delicious tasting experience even now.   Because of the spare volcanic soils and harsh growing conditions, many Assyrtiko vineyards are trained low to the ground, in basket form.  This protects from the fierce winds and allows moisture from morning mists to nourish the vines. There is no phylloxera on the island and some of the vine roots are hundreds of years old.  Yields are low and the Assyrtiko grapes retain a high acidity.  The result is ageable, richly-textured wines of depth and complexity.  The 2020 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko shows scents of pineapple, lemon, peach, mango and sun-dried herbs.  The flavors are pure and complex, with rich lemon, peach, apricot and tropical fruits underlain by elements of honey and herbs.  The low yields result in a richly-textured wine backed by a bracing, crisp acidity.  Delicious now, it will age nicely for several years.