Robert Mondavi, California (United States) Pinot Noir 2021

  California red wines have traditionally been judged by their balance between residual sugar, alcohol and acidity, and most still are.   Even early efforts at late-harvest reds, such as those at Ridge, tended to favor higher alcohols than to make a terribly sweet wine.  Then gradually “fruity sweet” crept in with Parkeresque, fruit-forward wines, but sometimes the fruit tended to be end-loaded as well, with a clinging sweetness in the aftertaste which many Sonoma Coast Pinots exhibit today.  Marketers usually move in when they see an opportunity, or think they can create one, and I wonder if the people introducing this Bob Jr. wine (naturally sweet, gpl sugar not listed, 9% alcohol) are aiming at the Eastern market, where more sweet table wines are produced, or dieters who think less alcohol automatically means fewer calories.  All that aside, the wine is well-constructed, light in color and texture, with tart strawberry flavors that echo more of fresh fruit juice than clumsy Port overtones.  The finish is sweet, of course, but there is enough acidity to lessen the effect.  Not my choice for the table, but it should be great for those demanding their sugar fix or who need a holiday turkey wine for folks back home.