Brandlin Estate, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2020

 If you read the designation for this wine carefully before digging into this review copy, you’re aware that we’re talking about $45 for a California Sauvignon Blanc.  If you’re aware of my general opinion of California Sauvignon Blanc, this will seem like a screed-in-the-making, because I’m almost always bored senseless by the category, which has neither the minerality of Sancerre nor the fruit flash of the best examples from New Zealand.  However, this wine is so well made from such excellent fruit that I just flat loved it — despite my apprehensions.  It is medium-bodied, with very subtle evidence of low-toast oak aging and lees influence but still recognizable varietal character.  The fruit notes recall white melons and lemon curd, with just a touch of spice and a very gentle tug of tannin in the finish (which is easily counterbalanced by the wine’s weight and substance).  This is not a wine that is easy to make well — nor one that is easy to make me enjoy — but this really hits the mark.  Don’t be worried that this isn’t from the 2021 vintage, as it is the current release, and the wine has benefitted from a little time in bottle to integrate its aromatic and flavor elements into a harmonious ensemble.  Returning to my initial remark, $45 is a “big ask” in this category, but this wine is at the head of its class, along with the likes of the Sauvignons from Spottswoode and Merry Edwards.