Bonterra, Mendocino County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

 Whenever the name of a wine starts with “The,” you know the producer wants to make a statement.  An overweight bottle adds to that message.  Made with biodynamically grown grapes, this is a big, bold style of Cabernet.  Powerful and concentrated, it’s not overdone, just intense with a commanding presence.  An intriguing hint of tarry bitterness in the finish emphasizes that this is a serious wine, not just a powerhouse of ripe fruit.  Moderate, but finely honed, tannins add necessary structure and balance without intruding.  Taken together, this powerhouse calls for a steak or leg of lamb this winter.  As an aside, it’s hard to ignore the paradox of environmentally friendly viticulture and the unnecessarily heavy bottle.