Imagery Estate, Pine Mountain – Cloverdale Peak (Sonoma County, California) Lagrein 2019

 Lagrein?  Damn right, Lagrein!  The variety remains largely landlocked in the Dolomite portion of the Alps in Italy’s Alto Adige / Südtirol region, and it would be far more famous if it were not hemmed in by mountains for the good reason that the variety makes one of the world’s best food wines.  This rendition shows all of its many virtues, starting with inky color and deep pigment concentration, followed by bright blackberry fruit scents and flavors that follow suit, with impressive flavor impact but only moderate weight and wonderfully fresh acidity.  Keep your mitts off this for another few years if you can, as it will relax and fill out into an even more compelling wine.  But if the intrigue is too much for you, crack a bottle now and then buy more.