Domäne Wachau, Wachau (Austria) Grüner Veltliner 2021

 The Wachau region along the Danube west of Vienna is well known for its elegant, yet structured, Grüners and Rieslings, and Domäne Wachau is recognized as being among the best producers there.  Personally, though, I think the region’s Grüners generally out-perform their Rieslings, and this Grüner is among the best that I have sampled.  There is a lot of complexity in its aromas, almost like sniffing a Côte d’Or Cru, and this comparison is confirmed on the palate.  The flavors are of apples and Asian pears, but there are also earthy notes and those of aged cheeses and whey – again, similar to a white Burgundy, except a little juicier.  Structurally, the wine is very linear in spite of its complexity, and it has a great backbone.