King Family, Monticello (Virginia) 2019

 If you are a wine explorer, spend some time in Virginia.  Like Napa Valley was in the 1970s and ‘80s, there are constantly new wineries and new wines to discover.  I was working on an article about American fortified wines when I came across several in Virginia, a Vermouth-style or two but mainly those patterned after Port.  Winemaker Mattieu Finot, who hails from the upper Rhône Valley, has come up with his own version – “7” – which both tastes like a ruby Port, yet doesn’t quite.  Which is the way he planned it.  The wine is a little lighter in alcohol (17%), and while it has rich fruit, it doesn’t try to ape the deep intensity of a vintage Port.  With dark cherry flavors, it has a less-intense middle body than Port and segues into notes of mocha, chocolate and charcoal, the latter most likely from aging in Woodford Reserve Bourbon barrels.  If I were to drink fortified wines every evening – a nice thought, but an impractical one – one night would be vintage, and the other “7.”   Sold in a 500ml bottle.