Masseria Li Veli, Salento IGT (Puglia, Italy) Susumaniello 2021

 I was introduced to the wine grape Susumaniello (sue sue man YELL oh) during a trip to Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot in 2017.  As I noted in a column that year, “the grape’s name refers to its vigor when allowed to grow unimpeded by pruning or other limiting vineyard practices.  Apparently, the vine can carry a heavy load like a donkey, which most likely made it popular as a component of much of the bulk wine production for which Puglia was known in the past.  That vigor drops dramatically after the vine gets older than ten-years, which may be one of the reasons for its near demise.  That decrease in vigor also may be one of the reasons for the renewed interest in the grape.”  This past week, I served this 2021 Susumaniello with a roasted pork tenderloin, a protein which I think has a bit of sweetness that pairs beautifully with the wine’s bright raspberry, cherry fruit laced with anise, round and luscious in the mouth.  Crisp acidity keeps it fresh, while the grape’s sturdy tannins keep it firm.