Guidobono, Roero Arneis DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2021

 The name Arneis, which translates as “little rascal,” is a reference to the grape’s sometimes challenging behavior in the vineyard.  But by the time I poured it into my glass the wine’s well-balanced flavors and nicely rounded mouthfeel might have led me to think that these grapes had been by nature well behaved in the vineyard.  Or perhaps they were simply well cared for.  Cryomaceration, a process in which the grapes are stabilized at relatively low temperatures to help extract compounds in the grape skins, certainly contributed to its good balance and pleasing texture.  Whatever the true explanation, this deliciously crisp and dry white wine from northern Italy’s Piedmont region offers inviting aromas that lean toward floral, plus a relatively generous body, a reasonable 13.5% alcohol level, and a flavor profile suggesting stone fruits and pear.  Certainly the 30 to 40-year-old vines thrive in the Roero region’s hilly clay and limestone soils.  All in all, this is one little rascal that’s easy to fall in love with.