This is a phenomenally delicious wine, and though it will surely improve for a decade or more, but one doesn’t need to hold it for anywhere near that long for it to be enjoyable enough to justify its asking price. Very rich and with a deep, soft core of dark fruit, this is surprisingly approach able and even charming for a wine that packs a very serious punch. The fruit is sourced entirely from 80-year-old vines in the Senda del Lobo vineyard, and deserves the 24 months of aging to which it was treated in French oak barrels. Tasted again 24 hours after it was first opened, it had neither improved nor lost any of its initial appeal, reaffirming my sense that this faces zero risk of going into decline anytime soon, but is also ready to enjoy with robust food.
Bodegas Elías Mora, Toro Reserva (Castilla y León, Spain) 2015
By Michael Franz