Agreeing on a proper balance in wines is an extremely difficult thing to do because each region and each grape variety or varieties have their own legitimate profile. So in most cases, we revert to asking what is the profile of related wines from the region, then judging the wine in question accordingly? I like this wine, but I would like to like it more. It is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon along with other Bordeaux grapes, yet it has some of the same raspy characteristics of a Sangiovese – lots of tart cherry flavors along with loads of dusty tannins. So yes, I would like more fruit in this wine (and more complexity), yet I would be quite happy to drink it with a rare steak. But as a sipping wine, I might not pull the cork.
Sapaio, Bolgheri Superiore (Tuscany, Italy) 2019
By Roger Morris