Domaines des Schistes, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (France) 2018

 Longtime vineyard owners who for decades sent their fruit off to the local coop, the Sire family decided to venture into winemaking in 1990.  Based in Estagel, the family’s vineyard is organically farmed and they now make a wide range of wines, including several “vin doux naturel” offerings.  This wine is made from equal portions of Grenache and Carignan, and 40% Lledoner Pelut which is an ancient, indigenous Catalan vine.  Like many encountered during my first visit to Roussillon a decade ago, this is a veritable wine of place.  That obscure grape that plays a major role here is likely a mutation of Grenache but ripens earlier and withstands high winds, which explains its availability in the windy area around Estagel and Tautavel.  This wine really demands time to unfold, but it slowly reveals aromas of cola, game, and black olive along with notes of black fruit in the background.  Big, round and savory, it delivers tons of flavor with light tannin.  Probably wise  to open and enjoy over the next year or two.