Bodegas Arrocal, Ribera del Duero Reserva (Castilla y León, Spain) 2019

 Although this was notably woody and tight when first opened, it opened and broadened very impressively with an hour’s worth of aeration, and got nothing but better for 48 hours after being tasted initially.  I’d expect nothing less from this already-superb and still-improving producer, which is family-owned and firmly rooted in its rather sleepy village of Gumiel de Mercado.  This top-of-the-line bottling from 2019 is admirably concentrated and flavorful but without seeming overblown in any respect, staking its claim to excellence on purity of fruit more than sheer weight.  The finish very long and virtually perfectly proportioned once the wine opens a bit, with fruit, acidity, wood and tannin all working together in beautiful harmony.