It might surprise some readers to see a score of 92 on a review of a widely available $10 rosé from a brand that can be found in supermarkets, but you’ll understand the score you try this wine. As for its underlying possibility, it clearly results from well grown fruit that was picked (almost certainly by machine) at the right time and then handled with a light touch in a high-tech cellar, yielding pure flavors of red cherries and fresh strawberries with excellent freshness. The balance between fruit-based sweetness and energetic acidity is just right, enabling this to seem juicy and generous through the finish while never turning overtly sweet. Not every delicious wine is made by some guy wearing a beret and working by hand, however romantic that nostalgic thought may be.
Dark Horse, California (United States) 2022
By Michael Franz