Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2021

 This is one of the best white wines in all of Italy, which is almost as remarkable as the fact that it is only the 2nd best Pinot Bianco from Cantina Terlano.  It sits a tier below the “Vorberg Riserva” Pinot Bianco, which is among the best white wines in the entire world, with an ability to improve for as many as 20 years (not just hang on, but improve).  I buy both wines in almost every vintage, enjoying them differently and not really thinking of them as being in competition with one another.  This “little brother” isn’t all that little, as it is medium-bodied and full of flavor, with subtle aromas but satisfying flavors recalling ripe pears and baked apples.  It always seems soft but still energetic, thanks to exceptionally well-integrated acidity.  The wine displays this integration from when it is first released, demonstrating that time is not to be credited but rather exceptionally skillful growing, harvesting, winemaking and bottling.  I’ve never served this to anyone who didn’t love it.