Álvarez y Diez / Mantel Blanco, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2023

 I wonder whether reviewers put a “ceiling” on the scores they will accord to white varieties such as Albariño, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo, whether subconsciously (to avoid seeming out-of-step with other critics) or consciously (because these wines really aren’t made to be cellared for many years to benefit from the magic of tertiary development).  Be that as it may, this is terrific white wine, balancing serious density with excellent freshness and linear “drive” while also offering impressive complexity without the pungency that can make similarly styled, high-end Sauvignon Blancs difficult to match successfully with a wide range of foods.  This could be sipped on its own with great pleasure, but could likewise stand up to a grilled fish steak or a rotisserie chicken, and there’s no need to take a pork or veal chop out of the conversation.  Very few newly-released white wines can measure up to this for versatility — or sheer deliciousness.