Adegas Gran Vinum, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2023

 I’ve never visited this producer despite liking the different releases quite consistently — and always wondering how anybody worked up the nerve to give such a name to a winery!  The usual recipe for success is to exceed lowered expectations, but this top bottling from the producer succeeds without needing any adjustment of expectations.  It displays unusually impressive physical density for Albariño but without any sense of heaviness, thanks to excellent balancing acidity.  Classic fruit notes recalling white peaches are graced with equally classic aromas of white blossoms, along with added complexity from some saline minerality in the finish.  Those who enjoy Albariño often know that it need not be expensive, which is great.  But they should also be sure to try a truly exemplary rendition at some point – and this is certainly one that fits that bill…while living up to its name.