Merry Edwards Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2022

 This vineyard site was the first to produce a designated wine for Merry Edwards beginning in 1997, and I have tasted virtually every release since that vintage.  The 2022 is still rather taut, which is in no way a shortcoming, but rather an advantage for those who sagely age the Pinots from this great house, and a tip to thoroughly aerate the wine for those who prefer to dig in now.  By “taut” I mean that the acidity and tannin are currently hemming in the fruit just a bit, but at the risk of repeating myself — just a bit.  The oak is evident but very well balanced and already quite impressively integrated, and the fact that it doesn’t stick out as an element that isn’t yet harmonized is very impressive (even if that is in keeping with these wines over more than two decades).  One last word, lest my first observation be misunderstood:  This wine is way less taut than almost any red Burgundy of comparable quality, so don’t be scared off!